• Thang Loi Hotel: The West Lake’s Last Galán

    Thang Loi Hotel: The West Lake’s Last Galán

    The Thang Loi Hotel is the Cuban diplomat who came to Hanoi and never caught the flight home. Bell-bottoms, shirt unbuttoned to the chest, insolent sideburns, a cigar planted like a flag. This guy isn’t here to please. He’s here to make an entrance. His Cuban heels click along the lakeshore. Not to run. No.…


  • Park Hyatt Saigon: The Comforting Grammar of Luxury

    Park Hyatt Saigon: The Comforting Grammar of Luxury

    Park Hyatt has rebuilt a kind of fantasy French colonial mansion: ivory façade, symmetry, oversized white louvered shutters, Indochine furniture, teak parquet, Oriental rugs, XXL crystal chandeliers, a monumental staircase, an antique glass ceiling. Heavy artillery for selling colonial chic. An overloaded contemporary reconstruction. A look that is barely twenty years old. Park Hyatt said…


  • Hotel Continental: Saigon’s Eyes and Ears

    Hotel Continental: Saigon’s Eyes and Ears

    The Continental Hotel Saigon has the hauteur of an old uncle. Slightly crooked. Eyebrows gone wild. Hair sprouting from his ears. Glasses held together on the bridge of his nose. He watches the street with the quiet certainty of a man who knows he’s still got it. Even if nobody asked. You Can’t Pull One…


  • Praya Palazzo Bangkok: Luxury Becomes a Way of Touching History

    Praya Palazzo Bangkok: Luxury Becomes a Way of Touching History

    Beyond being a boutique hotel, the Praya Palazzo tells the story of a Siam that understood early on that architecture could become a diplomatic weapon. Borrow Europe’s codes without surrendering your identity. Receive the world without letting yourself be swallowed by it. The house becomes a political statement in stone. And that’s when it makes…


  • Dalat Palace Hotel: How to End Up Part of the Set

    Dalat Palace Hotel: How to End Up Part of the Set

    Checking into the Dalat Palace isn’t booking a hotel. It’s buying a ticket to a period piece and stepping onto the stage without bothering to ask what part you’ve been given. The Dalat Palace doesn’t need you to love it. It needs you to play along. To buy into a romanticized Indochina of thick carpets,…


  • Whale Island: a long memory

    Whale Island: a long memory

    Twenty years now that Whale Island has been breathing its salty breath down my neck. First as a myth, overheard at a bar counter in Hanoi. Then as an unattainable dream. Finally, as daily life. We tamed each other. We parted ways. I watched it from afar for years, carrying the strange feeling that it…


  • Villa Louise: Hué washed up on the sand

    Villa Louise: Hué washed up on the sand

    Vietnam’s coastline has turned into one vast concrete competition facing the sea. Cloned resorts, swimming pools overflowing with vanity and boredom, tropical luxury mass-produced as if Da Nang, Nha Trang and Phu Quoc had all signed some global pact of standardisation. If not with the devil. And then there is Villa Louise. A place that…


  • Topas Ecolodge: reconciliation with Sapa

    Topas Ecolodge: reconciliation with Sapa

    Topas Ecolodge is a dreamer that keeps to itself, head in the clouds, the one that stands apart, deliberately isolated. Far from the open-air laboratory of ugliness that is Sapa, where apprentice sorcerers dare every kind of experiment: aggressive urbanization, incoherent hotels, neon lights, clashing architectures, fake Alpine pastiches, concreting, giant cable cars, parachuted tourist…


  • Tam Coc Garden: reclaiming the Nha Quê

    Tam Coc Garden: reclaiming the Nha Quê

    For decades, it was the great forgotten, if not the greatly despised. Here, the project places the peasant back at the center of the blueprint, a reminder that they are the true nobility of Northern Vietnam, the one who stands tall, feet anchored in the mud of the Red river delta. Far from standardized luxury,…


  • Street food in Luang Prabang: The prim cousin turns into a loud-mouthed harlot!

    Street food in Luang Prabang: The prim cousin turns into a loud-mouthed harlot!

    Street food in Luang Prabang is that impeccably married cousin, heavy wedding ring, ancient surname, who knows how to host. In her UNESCO-listed parlor, all polished woodwork and royal souvenirs under glass, she serves her guests exactly enough edible politeness: avocado sandwiches, well-groomed crêpes, lukewarm buffets, and imported fondues. Nothing out of place, nothing smelling…


  • Azerai La Residence Hue: the sublime dandy

    Azerai La Residence Hue: the sublime dandy

    In Hue’s imperial wardrobe, heavy with brocades, symbols, and soaring rooftops, Azerai La Residence cuts through. Where the Citadel and the tombs pile up metaphors, it imposes the rule of the straight line. It is the shift from a rigid, over-ornate coronation robe to the midnight white tuxedo of an old dandy who no longer…


  • You don’t just sleep at Anhill. You inhabit it; you engage with it.

    You don’t just sleep at Anhill. You inhabit it; you engage with it.

    While “boutique hotel” has become a washed-out concept, gutted of its substance by marketing, a convenient label slapped onto any halfway decent establishment to justify a price tag, Anhill refuses to play that game. It restores order. Here, nothing exists just to “look pretty.” Every line, every material, every void is a calculated decision. One…


  • Souphattra Heritage Vientiane: the rare art of not dominating

    Souphattra Heritage Vientiane: the rare art of not dominating

    In this Vientiane streaked with glass towers and soulless concrete blocks, Souphattra Heritage plays the card of cordial understanding. It doesn’t loom over its neighbors; it fits in. It’s a luxury of good neighborliness that refuses arrogant verticality. Perhaps that’s why I feel at ease here, despite the loss of the patina from its predecessor:…


  • Street Food in Vientiane: Grandma unbuttons her dressing gown

    Street Food in Vientiane: Grandma unbuttons her dressing gown

    Vientiane plays the part of the provincial grandma, slumped by the Mekong like an old sofa, half-asleep in the heat. You take her for harmless, almost dull. A fatal misconception. The moment a burner hisses to life, the city straightens its spine: its street food is sharp, blunt, sometimes brutal, far bolder than its languid…


  • Hoa Binh Hotel: From “Splendide” to “Peace”

    Hoa Binh Hotel: From “Splendide” to “Peace”

    The Hoa Binh Hotel is a deliberate anomaly, a jagged piece of shrapnel in the polished display case of modern Hanoi. It is unsettling because it refuses to play the game: no chrome, no flashy neon, no synthetic luxury marketing. It preserves what “prestige” actually meant between 1930 and 1986, when it wasn’t about dazzling…