• Kep-by-the-sea : the Riviera to the sound of khmer funk

    Kep-by-the-sea : the Riviera to the sound of khmer funk

    Forget, for a moment, the bas-reliefs of Angkor Wat. The true national monument of the 1960s was not something you visited—it was something you listened to. It was funk. In Cambodia’s extraordinary history, there exists a stretch of time, a parenthesis of silk and vinyl, utterly singular, that nostalgics call the “Golden Age.” Between the…


  • Kudi Chin: The Bangkok neighborhood that never raises its voice

    Kudi Chin: The Bangkok neighborhood that never raises its voice

    This is Bangkok in slippers, while the rest of the city struts in Air Max. Shifty cats are posted like bouncers at seedy clubs, radios spit out ghosts of memories, and birds heckle the day away. Grandmothers lean over barbecues like they’re tending a sacred altar—here, the embers are a liturgy. Meanwhile, the grandfathers size…


  • Bia hoi: sitting low, living high

    Bia hoi: sitting low, living high

    Bia hoi, the grassroots sidewalk micro-brewery, is an indivisible organ of the Vietnamese capital’s urban anatomy. Structuring the city at eye-level, it reveals how Hanoi inhabits its streets, mixing generations, blurring the lines between private and public, and turning the city into a living, social, and gloriously loud organism. Above all, bia hoi is the…


  • In Vietnam, cement tiles are the archives of history

    In Vietnam, cement tiles are the archives of history

    In Vietnam, the moment you cross the threshold of an old house or an ancient building, your eyes are irresistibly drawn downward. The old cement tiles catch your gaze like a set of antique jewelry, worn by these houses with a faded nobility. They are one of the most beautiful legacies of colonial fusion: a…


  • The khu tap thê, living archives of Hanoi’s social and architectural history

    The khu tap thê, living archives of Hanoi’s social and architectural history

    Hanoi does not shine with the sharp, polished glow of other Asian capitals. Its incomparable charm lies in its faded tones, softened by monsoon rains and filtered through time. The khu tap thê, those collective housing blocks born of the socialist era, are a perfect and emblematic example of this weathered, washed-out poetry that clothes…


  • The walls of Hanoi, or the chic of decay

    The walls of Hanoi, or the chic of decay

    In Hanoi, the new and the modern is the “zau” squeezed into too-tight Shein, patent loafers shining brighter than his ideas, convinced that speed equals style. The old is the man who has outlived fashion without ever bowing to it : salt-and-pepper hair, just-right worn tweed, corduroy trousers, Weston shoes polished by time like a…